But there are other sides to Cairo. There are the pyramids of Giza, so iconic as to be beyond description. There is the astonishing gold of Tutankhamun, buried in the dusty upper corridors of the Cairo Museum. And there are the Islamic treasures of bejewelled mosques and sacred places of learning. For many people, however, the best of the city is experienced not through the iconic spectacle of ancient monuments, great though they are. Even more memorable perhaps is the morning coffee with traders in Khan al-Khalili bazaar, the glance of the midday sun off a piece of polished brass, or the call of a nation to prayer at sunset.
It's no coincidence that Misr in Arabic means both Cairo and Egypt. The capital is a magnet that draws people from the Nile Valley towards the promise of a better life. The city dominates Egypt as it dominates Arabic culture. And what gives it this life blood? It's undoubtedly something to do with the Nile, as it quietly threads through fashionable suburb and island allotment, past the mausoleums of the dead now occupied by the living and alongside luxury hotels and floating palaces of pleasure.
Sightseeing Overview
Most first-time visitors to Cairo understandably make a bee-line for the pyramids. Located in Giza, 18km (11 miles) from the city centre, they dominate the skyline of the city's suburbs. But Cairo is about much more than these remarkable constructions. Indeed, you could spend months in what could arguably be called the capital of the Arab world and still only scratch the surface.
Some sections of the city are attractions in themselves. The narrow streets of Old Cairo, the Coptic quarter and Islamic Cairo are like museums of historical buildings, punctuated by mosques, edged by the city gates and presided over by the citadel. Meanwhile, the Khan al-Khalili, the city's main market is the place to go to watch the Cairenese about their daily lives.
The Egyptian Museum of Antiquities is at the heart of the city, near Midan Tahrir, or Central Square. Dusty, and dated, this characterful old charmer houses some of the most exquisite artefacts of antiquity. To the north is Bulaq, a district of medieval back streets along the Nile. To the south is Garden City, a tree-lined former British enclave of the wartime years. Another area worth exploring is the Nile island of Gezira, famed for its opera house and art museums, and for a fashionable area of bars and restaurants known as Zamalek.
Note that most museums are closed during midday prayers on Fridays.
Egyptian Museum of Antiquities
With more than 120,000 artefacts spanning Egyptian history from the earliest dynasties to the Roman era, the Egyptian Museum represents the largest collection of its kind in the world. At least three to four hours is necessary to take in the highlights and, if time allows, the museum is best appreciated on successive half-day visits. The top attractions are the Tutankhamun Galleries, which display the gold and gem-inlaid funerary mask and 1,700 other treasures found in the tomb of the Boy King (restricted access), and the Royal Mummy Room, which contains the corpses of 11 of Egypt's most powerful pharaohs including Seti I and his son Ramses II. Room 27 displays intricate models of ancient life on the Nile, while the Old Kingdom Rooms contain beautiful statues and death masks from Giza and Saqqara. The Akhenaten Room, Jewellery Rooms and animal mummies are also fascinating.
Midan Tahrir
Tel: (02) 2578 2248 or 2452.
Opening hours: Daily 0900-1645; Fri 1200-1400.
Admission charge: Yes.
Pyramids of Giza
One of the seven wonders of the ancient world, the Pyramids of Giza are Egypt's prime tourist attraction. The Great Pyramid of Cheops was completed in about 2600BC and is the oldest on the site, and the largest in Egypt. It stands 136.4m (447.5ft) high and is made from an estimated 2.5 million limestone blocks. It was built to house the sarcophagus of King Cheops, although it is not known whether he was ever actually buried here. Nearby are three smaller pyramids built for the king's queens, and beyond are the two other large pyramids, those of Chephren and Mycerinus. Chephren was the son of Cheops and popular belief has it that he had the idea of building the Sphinx, to stand guard by his own tomb and that of his father. Some archaeologists say that this is not the case, and the Sphinx may even be some 2,600 years older than the pyramids themselves. Surrounding the pyramids are many smaller tombs and while there, one should also visit the Solar Boat Museum, which houses a superbly preserved wooden boat found near the Great Pyramid. There are daily sound and light shows (tel: (02) 385 2880), check times for different languages.
Pyramid Road, 18km (11 miles) southwest of central Cairo
Opening hours: Daily 0800-1600.
Admission charge: Yes.
Disabled access: N.
Coptic Museum
Situated in a lovely garden within the former Roman fortress of Babylon-in-Egypt, the Coptic Museum features Coptic art from the Christian era (AD300-1000). Among the highlights are the exquisite Coptic textiles, carved ivories, papyri (ancient paper) with text from the Gnostic gospels of Nag Hammadi, and Nubian paintings from the flooded villages of Lake Nassar. The ornate rooms are decorated with beautiful mashrabiyya (carved wood) screens, fountains and painted ceilings.
Sharia Mari Girgis, Old Cairo
Tel: (02) 2363 9742 or 2362 8766.
Opening hours: Sun-Thurs 0900-1600; Fri 0900-1200, 1300-1600.
Admission charge: Yes.
el-Muallaqa Church (the ‘Hanging Church')
Possibly dating back as far as the fourth century, el-Muallaqa is the oldest Christian place of worship in Cairo. It is called the ‘Hanging Church' because it is built on top of a Roman gate and reached by a stairway that leads to the courtyard. The beautiful interior features three barrel-vaulted aisles, altar screens of inlaid ivory and bone and an exquisite, carved marble pulpit supported by 13 pillars representing Christ and his disciples.
Sharia Mari Girgis, Old Cairo
Admission charge: N.
Bab Zuwayla
The southern gate of Bab Zuwayla is all that remains of the Fatimid city of el-Qahira. Executions took place here in Mamluk times but in the 19th century it acquired a happier reputation when a local saint, Mitwalli, performed miracles near the gate. To this day, people seeking healing nail a lock of hair or piece of clothing to the gate in hopes of receiving divine aid. Rising above the gate are the minarets of the Mosque of el-Muayyad, which offer some of the finest panoramic views in Cairo from the top. The mosque contains a shady courtyard and the mausoleum of the Sultan el-Muayyad and his son, who began building the mosque in 1415.
Sharia Darb el-Ahmar, Islamic Cairo
Admission charge: Yes.
Bayn al-Qasryn
In medieval times, Bayn al-Qasryn was the leading public square in Cairo, bustling with market stalls and entertainers. Today, it is lined with three Mamluk palace complexes. The finest, the Madrassa and Mausoleum of Qalaun, is also the earliest, completed in 1279. The mausoleum is stunningly decorated with an elaborate stucco arch bearing stars and floral motifs, ornate coffered ceilings and stained glass. The Mausoleum of an-Nasir Mohammed (1304) and the Madrassa and Khanqah of Sultan Barquq (1386) also boast fine architecture and decoration. Incidentally, a madrassa is a theological school, while a khanqah is a monastery.
Sharia el-Muizz, Islamic Cairo
Admission charge: Yes.
Bayt el-Suhaymi
Behind an unassuming facade is one of Cairo's finest houses, Bayt el-Suhaymi. Dating from the Ottoman era, it offers a glimpse of the lifestyle of well-to-do merchants during the 16th and 17th centuries. The maze of rooms on different levels feature an ornate first-floor harem with mashrabiyya screens overlooking the garden and an impressive ground-floor reception room where men were entertained with music and dancers.
19 Haret Darb el-Asfar, Islamic Cairo
Admission charge: Yes.
Citadel (el-Qal'a)
Nothing remains of Salah ad-Din's original 12th-century palace but the mosques and palaces atop this limestone outcrop reflect 700 years of Cairo history. The fortifications were first built to repel the Crusaders and became the royal residence for sultans well into the 19th century. The Mohammed Ali Mosque, with its huge central dome and four semi-domes, towers over the city. The enclosure also contains the Mosque of al-Nasir, Yusuf's Well and several small museums. The views over Cairo from the Citadel are outstanding.
Islamic Cairo
Admission charge: Yes.
Gayer-Anderson House (Bayt el-Kritliya)
The Gayer-Anderson House was the home of an English doctor to the royal family, who lived here from 1935-42. He restored two 16th-century houses, joined them together and filled them with exquisite decoration, furniture and oriental objects. The mashrabiyya-screened women's gallery overlooks the magnificent reception room with its central fountain, arguably the finest in Cairo.
4 Midan Ahmed Ibn Tulun, Islamic Cairo
Admission charge: Yes.
Ibn Tulun Mosque
Of all the mosques in Cairo, this is the one that should not be missed. Completed in 879, it is the oldest intact mosque in the city. The huge structure, built of mud-brick and wood, covers 2.4 hectares (6 acres) but is simple in decor. It is a unique example in Cairo of classical Islamic architecture inspired by Iraqi models, having been built by Ibn Tulin, who was sent to rule Cairo by the caliph of Baghdad. The pointed arches are the first of their kind. The views from the top of the spiral minaret are magnificent.
Sharia el-Salibah, Islamic Cairo
Admission charge: Yes.
Islamic Art Museum
This museum houses one of the world's largest and finest collections of Islamic art, dating from the seventh to the 19th centuries. The rooms contain carved woodwork and columns, mosaic fountains, metalwork and other architectural exhibits salvaged from crumbling mosques and mausoleums throughout Egypt. Some of the finest pieces are located in the central hall.
Midan Ahmad Mahir (Bab el-Khalq), Port Said Street, Islamic Cairo
Tel: (02) 390 1520.
Admission charge: Yes.
Mosque-Madrassa of Sultan Hassan
Covering 7,900 sq m (85,000 sq ft), this is one of the largest mosques in the world and the finest early Mamluk structure in Cairo. It was built between 1356 and 1363 and encompasses a stunning courtyard, four madrassas (theology schools) and a mausoleum flanked by huge doors. Visitors should go in the morning when the sun lights up the dark mausoleum.
Sharia el-Qal'a, Islamic Cairo
Admission charge: Yes.
